Dozes of Dames gathered at the home of Dame Portia Belloc Lowndes on Sunday, Jan .20 to catch up and raise a glass to 2019. The evening was stuffed with fabulous food, including a mouth-watering selection of cheeses from Dame Sophia Solomon and Tekla Imports, one of Chicago’s premier purveyors of fine cheeses) and a Chinese New Year Feast! The pictures below tell the best story.
From dumplings to noodles to “1000-Year-Old Eggs” and tiny hardboiled quail eggs, everyone had a delicious time! We repeated the popular “Give-and-Get” book exchange, where Dames brought beautifully wrapped books of personal significance and everyone chooses a one to take home. From cookbooks to inspirational biographies, everyone went home with a gift! Huge thanks for Portia and everyone who helped create for a warm evening of friendship and food on a cold January night in Chicago!
A dozen Dames got comfy in Gina Voci’s cozy screening room (aka third-floor guest room with fancy big-screen TV!) on Sunday, Jan. 7 to watch “The 100-Foot Journey” accompanied by delicious snacks prepared by Dame Chandra Ram from her new cookbook, The Complete Indian Instant Pot Cookbook. The movie tells the story of a young Indian chef in France and his dramatic ascent to the top, so the pairing of Indian foods was perfect! Crispy samosas filled with peas and potato, Indian-spiced popcorn and papadams with delicious spicy chutney kept everyone munching throughout the movie. Lest we get thirsty, Gina provided a perfect array of wines to match the food. (The Vouvray paired especially well with the spicy Indian foods!)
After the movie, the group headed to the kitchen, where Chandra and Gina were putting the final touches on an Indian feast for dinner! We enjoyed lamb vindaloo sliders, chickpea chaat (chickpea salad with pomegranate, cucumber and crunchy fried Indian bits), basmati rice with cumin and preserved lemon and saag paneer (sauteed spinach and mustard greens with Indian fresh cheese).
Chandra shared how her own experience as the daughter of an Indian father and an Irish mother growing up in America, informed her perceptions of Indian food. “Because of the way I grew up, I put a bit of an American spin on classic Indian recipes. So for example, lamb vindaloo turned into a riff on the southern pulled-pork sliders we all know and love — but with Indian flavors.”
Puzzling over what to serve alongside the Thanksgiving turkey? Sure, figuring out the supporting players is a challenge especially with family “requirements”: Granny’s cornbread stuffing. Uncle Jim’s canned jellied cranberry sauce. Our favorite? A super simple side called Albuquerque Corn from Dame Abby Mandel. It has great flavor and crunch (thanks to jicama) and takes 5 minutes to cook.
It’s part of this Thanksgiving Harvest Feast from “Chicago Cooks: 25 Years of Food History with Menus, Recipes, and Tips from Les Dames d’ Escoffier Chicago” (Surrey Books, 2007). Perhaps you’ll find more culinary inspiration for this holiday season.
— Dame Judy Hevrdejs
Thanksgiving Harvest Feast
Mixed Green Salad with Pine Nuts and Pomegranate Seeds
Brined Turkey
Cranberry Kumquat Conserve with Dried Cherries
Albuquerque Corn
Brussels Sprouts
Garlic Mashed Potatoes
Brioche Dinner Rolls
Rustic Pumpkin Tart
Sip: Gewurztraminer or Riesling or Cru Beaujolais or a refined, oak- and bottle aged-red.
Albuquerque Corn
Makes: 6 servings
Prep time: 15 minutes + Cooking time: 5 minutes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 large ears of corn, kernels cut off (about 2 cups)
1/2 jalapeno chile, seeded and minced
1 small jicama, peeled, chopped (about 2 cups)
8 green onions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
1/2 teaspoon each: ground cumin, salt
Heat oil in a 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add corn and jalapeno. Cook, stirring often, until corn is hot, about 2 minutes. Add jicama, onions, cumin and salt. Heat thoroughly, stirring occasionally, about 2 more minutes. Adjust seasoning. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Dorie Greenspan is not only one of America’s most prolific food personalities and cookbook authors, she also is a long-time member of Les Dames d’Escoffier (New York Chapter). Her newest book, Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook, dropped on Oct. 23, and during a promotional visit to Chicago, Dame Stacey Ballis hosted an afternoon reception with Dorie in between her packed schedule of public events on Nov. 1.
Stacey prepared an amazing array of treats from her own repertoire and from Dorie’s new book including Gougères, Tomato Chutney, and “Ricotta Spreadable,” a heavenly whipped ricotta cheese situation laced with herbs … delicious dolloped on the Gougéres! Thanks to H2Vino for providing Cava, and to our friends at Kerrygold, for providing an impressive array of delicious cheeses.
It was great fun to meet and talk to Dorie in such a casual atmosphere. These types of intimate gatherings with fellow Dames are part of what makes Les Dames so special. Huge thanks to Stacey Ballis for hosting us and of course, to Dorie, for making time for Chicago Dames. Bon appetit!
“Gray Skies, Bright Ideas” was the theme of the 31st annual Les Dames d’Escoffier International conference in Seattle, WA but as it turned out, it was bright skies and really bright ideas! With unusually warm and sunny weather, more than 250 Dames from around the world convened upon Seattle to see old friends, make new ones, learn, grow and become inspired.
Each year, attendees from Chicago talk about how stimulating and educational the conference is and how it energizes them to become more active in Les Dames to keep our chapter a leading one in LDEI. Some of the 15 Chicago Dames who attended this year shared their personal highlights from the Conference:
One of Carla Williams’ most memorable moments was the pre-conference excursion, Traditions & Tastes of Seattle’s International Scene. “We visited the Tsue Chong Company to see the production process of their won ton wrappers, Asian egg noodles and rice noodles, and fortune cookies,” said Carla. “This family-owned business only recently switched to more modern mechanics, and much is still done by-hand. I specifically learned that rice noodles start with actual rice – not rice flour. They soak the rice to make a slurry first, and the result is a super smooth noodle.”
Julie Chernoff chose the Pike Place Market Foodie’s Paradise tour: “I took an insider’s tour of Pike Place Market, and it was fascinating. I had no idea that there was such an important social justice component to the market (daycare, low income senior living, a food bank, etc.), nor did I realize how enormous it truly is. The food tour company is a Dame-owned business, which made it even more meaningful.”
Liz Barrett opted for the Rustic & Elegant Countryside Culinary Adventure. “We visited majestic Snoqualmie Falls, one of the area’s most impressive natural wonders, and then on to beautiful Carnation Farms (yes, that Carnation, of the famous coffee creamer) for a tour, capped by a lunch featuring farm-grown food and paired with fabulous Washington wines,” said Liz. “But the highlight of the day was Château Saint Michelle in Woodinville, Washington’s oldest winery. We were treated to the “Sensory Sojourn” blind tasting hosted by Saint Michelle’s head of Wine Education, Dame Linda Chauncey. It was really fun to team up with fellow Dames from all over, working together to identify smells and tastes of so many beautiful wines.”
Portia Belloc- Lowndes’ “pinch me ” moment was not only witnessing her food hero, Marion Nestle, receive the Grande Dame Award but also having a conversation with her about food policy. “Having access to talk with someone like Marion Nestle – whom I’ve always held in such high regard — was just amazing,” said Portia.
Sharon Olson, LDEI Treasurer, was excited about sharing the first annual Les Dames trend report, which everyone received on a clever wine-cork jump drive. If you would like a copy of the full Trend Report, please email info@ldei.org and it can be emailed to you.
Sharon also fondly recalled “dinner with Chicago Dames and one of our Legacy award winners, which reminds me of why Les Dames inspires us.”
Dining out, of course, is a popular topic, as Karen Levin picked dinner at Seattle hot spot Marjorie with a group of Chicago Dames as one of her highlights.
Veronica Hastings couldn’t decide which seminar was more fascinating. “Oysters: A Taste of Place,” featured Lissa James Monberg, a fifth-generation oyster farmer, and Shina Wysocki, a second generation oyster farmer, who demystified the origin of the oyster and talked about farming techniques and ecological issues. Dame Renee Erickson, chef and owner of Sea Creatures restaurants in Seattle, led the discussion and tasting of four local varieties.” “Each one had distinct flavors and textures,” said Veronica. “Fascinating!”
The “The Evolution of Rosé” seminar included a delightful history of rosé presented by Dame Katherine Cole, author of Rose All Day, and Dame Dawn Smith, sommelier at The Inn at Langley on Whidbey Island. Katherine’s extensive history of rosé coupled with Dawn’s fabulous knowledge of food and wine pairings and commentary during the tasting was a rosé lover’s dream.
And in order to protect the innocent, no names will be mentioned but many Dames raved about the “Cannabis Cuisine” seminar. Washington was the first state to legalize recreational use of marijuana in 2012, and we heard from an entrepreneur who started a popular line of edibles and a scientist studying the effects of marijuana on various conditions, from pain to mental health and brain acuity.
Toria Emas says she always looks forward to renewing friendships from across the pond and North America at conference. “The pre-conference tours are the best way to meet new Dames and learn about the local food scene,” said Toria. “The U.S. West Coast has a vibrant Asian immigrant community, and it was moving and uplifting to see how Seattle’s second- and third-generation Asians honor their elders by carrying on family businesses and traditions while innovating and updating procedures.”
The conference wrapped with an amazing preview of next year’s conference by Dame Sylvia Ganier channeling the inimitable Patsy Cline. Check out her amazing performance below, which will inspire you to plan your trip to Nashvillenext year, Oct. 24-27, 2019 for Nashville: Rhythm & Roots!
On Sept. 24, the Chicago Dames were treated to a discussion of crowd-sourced spiral-bound cookbooks at the new restaurant TWAIN in Logan Square. The owners are the husband- -and-wife team Chef Tim Graham and Sommelier and Mixologist Rebekah Graham, and they have an extensive collection of these cookbooks, which were often produced as fundraising vehicles for various organizations.
Dame Stacey Ballis moderated the conversation about why these books were produced, and why they are so special and important in the culinary history of this country.
The restaurant, a “love letter” to the foodways of the Midwest in general and Missouri specifically (where Tim grew up), was inspired in part by these cookbooks. “The hands that made these books, that cooked these recipes, when I read them — when I cook these dishes — my own hands are reaching back through time to touch those hands.” Tim said.
Rebekah spoke about how the books influence her work developing cocktail recipes for the restaurant. “They often don’t have many beverages listed in the books, maybe a few non-alcoholic punches. But they have a lot of jam and jelly recipes, a lot of preserving. Making jams and jellies is very similar to making syrups for flavoring cocktails, so that became my jumping-off point for some of the cocktails for the restaurant.”
Both Tim and Rebekah appreciate the joy that the books bring them. “Sometimes after a long day, we’ll make a cocktail and flip through one of the books and just laugh at some of the recipes.” Acknowledging that many of the recipes are dated in a way that makes them less than appealing, culinarily, Tim nevertheless loves the “giggles” aspect of reading the books. “We aren’t laughing at them, we’re giggling a bit, but in a loving way. It’s like all those grandmothers from the past are tickling us.”
After the discussion, the team at Twain treated guests to wine and cocktails, and some nibbles, including ham and cheese crostini on house baked rye, fish cakes with sour cream and dill, and an ethereal hand-churned vanilla ice cream that had been made while the discussion was occurring. Dames and guests were able to bring their own cookbooks to show, and anyone who donated a book to Tim and Rebekah’s collection received a gift certificate to spend at the restaurant on a future visit.
“These recipes have names attached to each one,” Tim said as the evening wound down. “What gets a signature? Art. Music. Poetry. Those are the things that people attach their name to in an important way. That is how I think of these recipes.” – By Stacey Ballis
On Sept. 17, 2018 the Les Dames d’Escoffier Chicago Scholarship Committee awarded scholarships totaling $30,000 to nine outstanding women pursuing culinary arts and hospitality education programs at four area schools. The Scholarship Committee received and reviewed 17 applications, inviting 11 women for personal interviews conducted by co-chairs Patricia Cobe and Joan Holleran Driggs, and committee members Mary Aregoni, Lois Levine, Phaedra Ruffalo, and Judy Hevrdejs-King. These are the impressive women who will receive scholarships and were honored at a reception at The French Pastry School.
Anna Astashkina is enrolling in the Cake Program at the French Pastry School. She has given up a lot to get to this point, having emigrated from Russia with her husband so he could attend flight school. Now it is her turn to pursue her passion. She has a master’s degree in mechanical engineering, but wishes to expand her skills as a baker and receive professional status and credentials, eventually sharing her knowledge by teaching cooking, baking and nutrition.
Gianina Gomez Cabrera is pursuing her culinary education at Kendall College. She came here from Peru to get a degree that will allow her to open a business that promotes nutrition and healthful global food. She has already operated a gourmet deli, then brought her children to Chicago, and attended St. Augustine College to learn English and start her culinary education.
Nina DeBoer attends Joliet Jr. College in the culinary arts program. She is an impressive self-starter, launching her own bakery and attaining Serv-Safe certification at the age of 12. Since then, she has baked thousands of cupcakes, created wedding cakes and catered large events. Nina has volunteered extensively, using her culinary skills to teach orphans and church groups.
Khrystyna Medvedyk emigrated from Ukraine where she experienced economic hardship and political unrest. Working at the Wit Hotel, she now has valuable hospitality experience, but her dream is to become a professional pastry chef. She is enrolled at the French Pastry School with the goal of opening a woman-operated business specializing in desserts that are delicious and healthful.
Jennifer Morley attends College of DuPage and is studying pastry arts. She is a mother of three children, one of whom is autistic. She is committed to completing her associate’s degree and pursuing her passion in baking. She already has demonstrated her expertise through volunteer work and a paid position at Meijer, where she custom decorates cakes.
Kelly Oatman grew up in Bolivia and attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, where she earned an associate’s degree in culinary arts. Her true love, however, is baking and she is eager to extend her education one more year to get her certificate from the French Pastry School.
Ivry Radford is attending the pastry arts program at theCollege of DuPage, graduating in 2020. She has established a home-based bakery business called Ivry’s Delights that she wishes to expand into a storefront. Ivry had to withdraw from college when her son suffered a medical emergency, and had the motivation to re-enroll and continue her studies.
Mary Grace Go Steinbach Grace moved here from the Philippines, where she worked as a data processor. She enrolled in the College of DuPage to earn an associate’s degree in culinary arts with the goal of expanding her food and wine expertise and eventually teaching. She already has a Master’s Degree in Environmental Studies, which deepened her knowledge of sustainability, the slow food movement and organic farming.
Leah Tibbs Leah decided to forge a new path into pastry arts. Over the last three years, with her passion for baking, she created a social media presence and website, connected with other women bakers and found a mentor. She works at Luxury Cake Company and has enrolled in the French Pastry School to get her professional credentials.
Huge thanks to the committee and to The French Pastry School for hosting a beautiful and delicious celebration of these outstanding scholarship recipients!