Dames Test Their Knowledge on Chicago Food Trivia

Dames met at Eli’s Cheesecake on Monday evening, April 1 to test their knowledge on Chicago food trivia. Dame Chandra Ram and Dame Carol Mighton Haddix, one of the co-editors of The Chicago Food Encyclopedia, led a fascinating presentation featuring many contributors to the book.

Along the way, answers were revealed to a truly challenging quiz developed by Carol.  All of the answers are featured in the book. (Do you know when smelting season starts in Chicago?) Download the quiz here –  and be warned – the answers are on the last page, so don’t peek ahead! Leave a comment and let us know how you fared.

Huge thanks to Eli’s Cheesecake for hosting us and sharing a truly tempting buffet of their delicious cheesecakes, cakes, cookies, brownies and other goodies! It was “dessert for dinner” for many Dames and no one was complaining about that!

“Dames Who Read” Dine & Dish on Southern Comfort Food

“Dames Who Read” organizer Judith Hines gathered a hungry group of Dames around a table laden with Southern comfort food for February’s culinary book club event. The book: The Best Cook in the World: Tales from My Momma’s Table by Rick Bragg. The venue: Ina Mae’s Tavern, one of Chicago’s newest hot spots by acclaimed chef, Brian Jupiter, who brings his southern roots to the menu.

The group dined on cheddar biscuits, Cajun mac-n-cheese, beans, pork chops, deviled eggs, fried okra, sweet potato hash, and fried apple pies as they dished about the book.

In the book, author Rick Bragg introduces his mother, Margaret Bragg, who does not own a single cookbook. She measures in “dabs” and “smidgens” and “tads” and “you know, hon, just some.” She cannot be pinned down on how long to bake corn bread –“about 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the mysteries of your oven.” Her notion of farm-to-table is a flatbed truck. Many of her recipes pre-date the Civil War, handed down skillet by skillet, from one generation of Braggs to the next. In this New York Times bestsellerRick Bragg finally preserves his heritage by telling the stories that framed his mother’s cooking and education, from childhood into old age. Because good food always has a good story, and a recipe, writes Bragg, is a story like anything else.

Dames Wine and Dine at Vietnamese Lunar New Year Celebration

51223850_2348625688482865_1431925011106496512_nDame Mary Aregoni brought the Vietnamese celebration of Tet – or the Lunar New Year – to life with a lively dinner at Bang Chop on Wednesday, Feb. 5. Mary and her mother, known to all as Mama Suu, orchestrated a multi-course feast from the menu of Mary’s restaurant, Saigon Sisters.  Each course was paired with two wines selected by the “Dame Somms:” Veronica Hastings, Gina Voci, Kim Hack and Liz Barrett. They intentionally chose non-French wines — which are so often paired with Vietnamese food — which led to some delicious discoveries of wines from Spain, Italy and Austria.

As guests arrived, they were greeted with a “Tet Tropicale,” a delectable concoction of Portell Cava (a lovely Spanish sparkling wine) and Mango-Basil Syrup by Dame Melissa Yen, founder of Jo Snow Syrups. Guests were then treated to such Vietnamese delights as Goi Bap Chuoi Ga (chicken salad with banana blossoms, papaya and herbs), Nem Cua (Imperial crab rolls in fried rice-paper), Wagyu beef Pho dumpling soup, Thit Heo Kho (pork braised in coconut water with caramelized egg, pickled vegetables and rice and much more.

The “Dame Somms” team presented the wines as each course was served, sharing background on each and ideas about how the food complemented each wine and vice versa. Huge thanks to Mary, Mama Suu and the entire team at Saigon Sisters and Bang Chop for such a festive and delicious evening!

 

 

Dames Ring in 2019 at Post-Holiday Party

Dozes of Dames gathered at the home of Dame Portia Belloc Lowndes on Sunday, Jan .20 to catch up and raise a glass to 2019. The evening was stuffed with fabulous food, including a mouth-watering selection of cheeses from Dame Sophia Solomon and Tekla Imports, one of Chicago’s premier purveyors of fine cheeses) and a Chinese New Year Feast! The pictures below tell the best story.

From dumplings to noodles to “1000-Year-Old Eggs” and tiny hardboiled quail eggs, everyone had a delicious time! We repeated the popular “Give-and-Get” book exchange, where Dames brought beautifully wrapped books of personal significance and everyone chooses a one to take home. From cookbooks to inspirational biographies, everyone went home with a gift! Huge thanks for Portia and everyone who helped create for a warm evening of friendship and food on a cold January night in Chicago!

Dames Savor Indian Dinner & a Movie

49616279_2304629772882457_9026376537120702464_nA dozen Dames got comfy in Gina Voci’s cozy screening room (aka third-floor guest room with fancy big-screen TV!) on Sunday, Jan. 7 to watch “The 100-Foot Journey” accompanied by delicious snacks prepared by Dame Chandra Ram from her new cookbook, The Complete Indian Instant Pot Cookbook. The movie tells the story of a young Indian chef in France and his dramatic ascent to the top, so the pairing of Indian foods was perfect! Crispy samosas filled with peas and potato, Indian-spiced popcorn and papadams with delicious spicy chutney kept everyone munching throughout the movie. Lest we get thirsty, Gina provided a perfect array of wines to match the food. (The Vouvray paired especially well with the spicy Indian foods!)

49514471_2304629779549123_2130848195985539072_nAfter the movie, the group headed to the kitchen, where Chandra and Gina were putting the final touches on an Indian feast for dinner! We enjoyed lamb vindaloo sliders, chickpea chaat (chickpea salad with pomegranate, cucumber and crunchy fried Indian bits), basmati rice with cumin and preserved lemon and saag paneer (sauteed spinach and mustard greens with Indian fresh cheese).

Chandra shared how her own experience as the daughter of an Indian father and an Irish mother growing up in America,  informed her perceptions of Indian food. “Because of the way I grew up, I put a bit of an American spin on classic Indian recipes. So for example, lamb vindaloo turned into a riff on the southern pulled-pork sliders we all know and love — but with Indian flavors.”

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Dame Judy Schad: For the Love of Chevre

SCHAD-capriole-cheese-picYou would expect a holiday gathering at Dame Judy Schad’s home to feature a silky fresh chevre. And you wouldn’t be wrong. But the woman who founded Capriole Goat Cheese 30 years ago wouldn’t stop there.

A cheese assortment this season would include a ripened goat cheese, perhaps O’Banon, SCHAD-solo-pica subtle cheese wrapped in Bourbon-marinated chestnut leaves. Or the vegetable-ash-marbled Sofia, named for Dame Sofia Solomon. Or her favorite these days: Piper’s Pyramide with its smoked-paprika accent.

Schad would add an aged cheese, the wildflower-and-herb-dusted Julianna or Mont St. Francis, its rind bathed in Lagunitas Imperial Stout, then complete a cheese trio with a chestnut or lavender honey, nut breads, plus a berry sweet-tart compote or preserves with the Sofia or Piper’s.

Yet Schad doesn’t relegate the nine different goat cheeses (photo above) that Capriole makes to the cocktail hour or a single meal course. She stirs fresh goat cheese, gently, into quiche, risotto, cream sauces or cheesecake and offers more than a dozen recipes that use it, including Apple Clafouti with Fresh Goat Cheese, at capriolegoatcheese.com.

“Fresh chevre is an amazing ingredient. You can use it in almost anything where you want lightness and loft,” she told us. “The creaminess does not come from butterfat, but from the handling of the curd and preserving that fragile texture.”

Her caveat for cooking with fresh chevre: “If you’re putting it in a cheesecake or a sauce, you want to mix it carefully — like folding in egg whites. You don’t want to destroy the airiness of the cheese,” she added. “If you overwork it, you’re going to get something pasty, like peanut butter.”

It was a love of French chevre and a neighbor’s gift of a goat that sent Schad into the kitchen with the little book, “Cheesemaking Made Easy” by Ricki Carroll. As the size of the goat herd increased at her farm near the southern Indiana town of Greenville and the Kentucky border, she founded Capriole Goat Cheese and went on to create award-winning fresh, aged and ripened goat cheeses.

Initially, she tried duplicating French chevres. But inspired by fellow artisan cheesemakers — Cypress Grove’s Mary Keehn, Vermont Creamery’s Allison Hooper and Mozzarella Company’s Paula Lambert among them — she began, over the years, developing a variety of cheeses “that are a reflection of a place and a person and all the things you associate with terroir which is more than geography.” Like the Wabash Cannonball pictured here.

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“Wabash Cannonball is a reflection of the little boules we’ve seen in France and we’re not far from the Wabash River,” said Schad, who was “a Renaissance lit major so I loved playing with words.”

Mont St. Francis? There’s a Franciscan Retreat Center near Capriole.  And when she saw a cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves, she created O’Banon, trying eau du vie and Cognac then Bourbon, figuring: “I’m almost in the heart of Bourbon country.

“I don’t know if it’s part of the mysteries of the cheese, but you can take that very same basic curd and turn it into a cannonball or a Sofia or Pyramide — it can be the same curd you start out with and they come out differently. I love it.”

Her favorite part of cheesemaking was ladling fresh cheese into the molds and baskets, but “ladling that 400 gallons of fresh curd is not anything I can do by myself anymore,” said Schad, a member of the Chicago chapter and frequent visitor to the Windy City.

The best part of these days? “It’s the people I work with and the customer on the other end. That’s what really keeps me inspired and excited about what we’re doing.”

“And it’s the people I’ve met along the way,” Schad added, remembering her first customers Carrie Nahabedian and Sarah Stegner and Jean Joho and her friendships with Sophia Solomon and Green City Market. — Dame Judy Hevrdejs                                                              Photos courtesy of Capriole, Inc.

 

  

Hanging Out with Dame Dorie Greenspan

tP22OtGVQte7eCgew2v3KgDorie Greenspan is not only one of America’s most prolific food personalities and cookbook authors, she also is a long-time member of Les Dames d’Escoffier (New York Chapter). Her newest book, Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook, dropped on Oct. 23, and during a promotional visit to Chicago, Dame Stacey Ballis hosted an afternoon reception with Dorie in between her packed schedule of public events on Nov. 1.

Stacey prepared an amazing array of treats from her own repertoire and from Dorie’s new book including Gougères, Tomato Chutney, and “Ricotta Spreadable,” a heavenly whipped ricotta cheese situation laced with herbs … delicious dolloped on the Gougéres! Thanks to H2Vino for providing Cava, and to our friends at Kerrygold, for providing an impressive array of delicious cheeses.

It was great fun to meet and talk to Dorie in such a casual atmosphere. These types of intimate gatherings with fellow Dames are part of what makes Les Dames so special.  Huge thanks to Stacey Ballis for hosting us and of course, to Dorie, for making time for Chicago Dames. Bon appetit!